Our escape from the Sahara went surprisingly easy. We travelled north via taxi and then bus back over the Atlas mountains to the north of the country. Passing through some towns which looked liked we could very well be in Switzerland.
Arriving late in Fes we decided to stay in the French built Ville Nouvelle instead of the ancient medina. The Fes medina is legendary for it's hustlers and faux guides. Also the budget accommodation is horrendous and damn it we wanted pizza. Everything was going great, we found a good budget hotel which even had a pool and then had decent pizza.
The following day we started by getting basics done like laundry, postcards and updating the blog. By afternoon we were ready to tackle the walled Fes medina. Like an invading army we planned our attack on the approximately 9400 twisting alleys, ready to dodge the faux guides and mule drawn carts. As we entered through the Bab Bou Jeloud gates we made sure we knew the rules. Walk past any faux guides smiling and repeating "La Shukran", Arabic for no thank you. Armed with our guidebook the plan was to somehow find our way to the north end of the medina so we could break our fast with a cold Casablanca beer. Breaking fast with beer you ask? Well we are Canadian infidels after all.
Right, so back to the Medina. Through the gates and everything seemed too easy. "Wow that was nothing, they always exaggerate things in the guidebooks." I said as the streets narrowed and we walked downhill into the heart of the medina. About 50 metres later it started. Usually hassle in Morocco was no more than some guy asking where you are from and to please look in his shop. Here it was like nothing we have seen anywhere else in the world. Young men stalked us, speaking non stop and ignoring our "La Shukrans". Not only did they follow but they would hang on to my arm as they walked with us. They were very persistent and followed for a good minute before fading away. That is until one young punk in a blue shirt showed up. He wanted to be our guide, to show us the hidden tanneries . We said la shukran many times, he was tough to understand and kept following but now grabbing onto my arm. I was about to snap on this guy but remained cool. Still he wouldn't let up, now telling us that without him as our guide "There would be problem for you down there." OK now this was getting a bit creepy, I turned to him and loudly said "just go away". Standing in a small but busy square this got the attention of others. One guy came over acting friendly until he walked away and slapped Jordana's ass. Then we were saved by a middle aged man, in the corner of my eye I spotted him with the blue shirted punk. They were yelling and the man then grabbed the punk by the collar and threw him up against the wall. Probably telling him to stop bothering the nice cool people from Canada, even though they sounded like Americans they weren't. OK maybe he didn't say that, but I'm not sure what he was yelling at him in Arabic. He still had a hold of him as they walked away with the punk yelling "F-you" at us. Very strange and a sad site.
From there on it got much better and the medina is truly an amazing place. We got lost a few times but usually found our way. The trick to was to ask the friendly shopkeepers for directions and avoid the roaming punk guides. The sun was quickly setting however and we needed to be on the northside of the medina at the 19th century Palais Jamai for our beer. Like contestants of the Amazing Race we hurried through the alleys asking people for direction. We finally made it out of the walled mayhem. Our prize wasn't a million dollars but we were rewarded with some cold Casablanca beer at the Palais Jamai, which is now a luxury hotel. A huge contrast from the filth and hassle of the medina below the Sofitel Palais Jamai is quite possibly the most luxurious hotel I have ever seen. As we drank our beer watching the sunset on the medina below and listening to the call to prayer from the 350 mosques I thought, Even if we don't get $1 million this was definitely worth the effort, but then again when isn't beer worth the effort?
No comments:
Post a Comment