Monday, October 09, 2006

Please Touch My Monkey


We started the day with breakfast on the rooftop overlooking the 70 metre high minaret of the Koutoubia mosque. Walking across the djeema el fna we entered the souks (markets) looking for the Ali Ben Merdessa or Islamic school. The school was beautiful as was the neighbouring Musse Marrakech, but the real experience was the souks.

The souks are an intense place. You walk through crowded alleys with motorbikes squeezing through. A man jumps in my face and grabs my arm yelling Hello, look please, maybe later. A veiled woman comes at us from, the other side holding her hand out for whatever change we may have and in the corner of my eye I spot the meat stall. Oh yes the meat stall is a great place. This is why we are veggies. A whole side of cow hangs, livers splayed out and the greatest sight of all, strung out like garland is the fat, sinew and tendons of some poor animal. Turning right down another alley and we spot a hanging fox, whole dried iguanas and dead vultures. Apparently the fox is not for sale, ruined my shopping day. Welcome to the white magic souk, filled with ingredients for magical potions for love were told. If you ask nicely you can even get some illegal rhinoceros horns in the back.

Parts of the souks exist largely for tourists, however the mentioned areas are all local. In the blacksmith souk it feels as if you are walking through a factory. Men file, grind and pound away then sell their wares in the shop front. As crazed a place as the souks are, they really do wear you down, it has been our favourite place to wander. You need patience and a sense of humour but with both its an unforgettable place.

At night we are drawn back to the djeema el fna, seems like all locals and tourists come here at night. The square is the heart and soul of this African city. First up we hit the snail stall. No garlic butter here, just a bowl of sticky gooey snails that I pull out of their shells with a toothpick, delicious. Jordana tastes one and stops there.

Leaving the square for the night we walk through the snake charmers, henna artists and of course the monkeys. A man approaches with his monkey wearing a diaper and shinny vest. Please touch my monkey. Whoa, we just met buddy.